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Welcome to Krieger's Cam Chain Tensioners. The email address has changed, but some pages have the old address and I cannot edit them. The new address is kriegercct@clems-garage.com It came to my attention that there are individuals who either post instruction or have even put up Youtube videos giving misinformation about cam chain adjustment. It appears some will tell you to tighten the adjustment until the idle of the engine starts to drop. Others may say to tighten the adjustment until there is a squeal! What do these people think is happening mechanically when the engine is dragged down by excessive friction and even something causing a squeal? The cams run in the machined bearing surface of a rather expensive head. There is a film of a few thousandths of an inch between the cam journal and the head - about the thickness of a hair or two. Break that film and you have metal to metal contact. Do you think it makes sense to tighten the cam drive until there is so much drag as to cause the engine to bog or squeal? Chains are meant to run with as little slack as possible, but NOT under any actual tension. (For some of you who played with bicycles you may have overtightened bicycle chains before, remember how they worked, then how much better they worked when slightly loose?) These well meaning people are making a serious error in performing adjustments in the fashions mentioned. If they don't cause immediate damage of some sort they will promote premature wear on components due to unnecessary tightness of the cam drive line, all rather costly to deal with.. The adjustment of a manual tensioner is simple and is printed here in directions that are on the page "About Tensioners". Take a look to see how to do it right. Don't risk ruining an engine with the mechanically poor adjustment techniques posted out there, no matter how well intentioned the posters may be. As I've mentioned before, from the mechanical point of view I'd rather run just a tiny bit loose than too tight. With the methods in our instructions, you will be very near ideal adjustment erring to the loose side if any and only by a few thousandths of an inch (one full turn of an M8-1.25 bolt is .050", so 1/8 turn is about .006", not enough chain play to cause any apprieciable wear and far less play than any failing OEM tensioner). This product was developed out of my need to replace broken/failing cam chain tensioners on my own bikes,. It became apparent very quickly that I wasn't alone. Many other riders could benefit from these and I developed a cost effective method of manufacture to make them at a good price for others to keep their motorcycles properly running.. I currently have designs for most Kawasaki motorcycles, several Honda models, along with some Yamaha and Suzuki models. If you need one for your bike, fill out the information form or use my email address below and I will send you information and a quote, plus answer any questions you may have. One more note. I have some of the instruction documents on the site. You may find it useful to use Google Translate to translate them along with other pages here.
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